You have to suck Tokyo into your lungs and let it rewrite your DNA.
You have to piece together your own reality one combini at a time.
As you look around your tiny room and try to remember the rest of some words from an Elvis Costello song,
you grab things and put them together and that is how you change a part of the world.
It doesn’t matter, not to anyone but you, and it doesn’t objectively matter actually at all.
But it will matter when you hit Tokyo’s streets.
It will help your brain figure out how to piece it all together and give it immovable coordinates on your permanent brain map.
Like I said, you have to let the city rewrite your DNA.
Actually, you don’t have any choice in the matter, but it’s always easier when you acquiesce and let it happen easily.
The girl and some younger neighborhood boys were playing with a turtle in the street. But as young kids do, they boys lost interest in the turtle and moved on to other distractions. This left the older girl, who clearly was not the turtle’s owner, to deal with the small reptile as it found its way into the moist gutter along the street.
She was angry when she stood rigidly in the street and called to the boys, who had gone inside for a few moments, to come get their turtle. The boys ignored her.
(Pictures taken in Nakano 5-chome, Tokyo in September, 2013)
She passed me.
She didn’t see me.
I remained still.
I didn’t see her.
in the grotesque way
of all the crowded heavens in Tokyo,
I saw her delicate passing
non-substance downloaded on
my tengu-blue digital screen.
(Picture taken in Nakano Broadway, Tokyo in September, 2013)
I didn’t get much sex in Tokyo this year. That is to say, unlike the risqué series of photos I took last year , in 2013 I think I unconsciously decided there were things I wanted to include in my photographic Tokyo explorations other than additional copious evidence of the unabashed Japanese attitude toward retail sexual entertainments. But when I passed this window one sunny September day in Shinjuku, well, I just had to marvel at these sizes and imaginative shapes…
(Picture taken in Kabukichō, Shinjuku, Tokyo on September 20th, 2013)
I was waiting for friends in Ueno, in the street next to a big toy store called Yamashiroya. He was there too, talking to himself or the air. He looked rough as hell and put out his hand when I asked if I could take his picture. I gave him the four cigarettes in the remainder of the pack I had.
We were both still waiting there a few minutes later, me for my friends and he for whatever wisdom or truth he expected the breeze to blow his way. He was enjoying one of my smokes. So I decided to give him a ¥500 coin, though it was an odd thing to do. Tokyo street folk don’t generally ask for nor accept money.
But in the moment it just seemed to make things better for both of us. So I rolled with it.
(Pictures taken in Ueno, Tokyo on September 13th, 2013)
Kids are cool. I don’t always relate well to them even though I used to be a school teacher, but kids are cool. The small but agreeable crew pictured below have taken a liking to me and enjoy coming by to say hello when the glass door of the apartment I’m renting is open. This might have something to do with that fact that I gave this guy a toy earlier today. Hell, they’re more entertaining than Japanese TV. And they remind me of one of my favorite songs. So in my book the kids are alright…
(Picture taken in Nakano, Tokyo on September 15th, 2013)
This pretty cool kid, the Nakano Bicycle Defender from my work last year, was in the street outside my apartment playing with his friends. He let me go about my business, but made it very clear who the master of the asphalt was. And I had no choice but to respect that.
(Picture taken in Nakano, Tokyo on September 15th, 2013)
I’m a huge fan of the Tokyo-based toy and graphic design collective Devilrobots. I’ve paid specific tribute to them on these pages a couple of times, which you can see here and here. And in May, 2012 I got to visit the Devilrobots’ offices in Tokyo and hang out with Kotohiro Nishiyama, who is really the just nicest man. And because I’m a fan, possibly even a borderline obsessive, I sometimes post pictures of items from my Devilrobots collection on Facebook. What follows is a collection of my favorite and most “liked” Devilrobots Facebook photos. Perhaps after looking through them, you might understand why I love the color, attitude, and anthropomorphic whimsy of their creations. Enjoy.
Be@rbricks, also by Medicom. First two are Series 3.
(All pictures taken at the Abiko Free Press Brisbane Bureau in Brisbane, California)
My friends took me to lunch today. We went to my favorite noodle and donburi shop…
The green tea was beautiful. I wanted to get in it like it was a hot onsen bath…
My favorite lunch is oyakodon. I had a giant bowl all to myself. I was very hungry…
After lunch, my friends went shopping. I went to see an old friend…
In Japantown, there is a beautiful concrete pagoda. We went to see it. The sky was very blue…
To help save forests, I read news online. This newspaper machine was a strange sight to me…
I am very green, so I picked up trash on the way home. San Francisco can be very dirty…
But I am relaxed now and home with my friends. We do yoga. It was a good day.
Sometimes Tokyo is the cigarette you toss
into an ashtray full of garbage and water.
Sometimes Tokyo is the restaurant
you pass by every day but never go in.
Sometimes Tokyo is toys you see in a school display
while walking from Nakano Station to Shinjuku.
(Pictures taken in Nakano-ku and Shinjuku-ku in April, 2012.)
Anpanman and a bunny, dangling from a bike in the rain. The bike didn’t look discarded, but it didn’t look too well cared-for either. I imagined a happy child in the seat, riding in the sunshine with his father pedaling through warm air in a better part of town.
There are families in Sanya, of course, not just hopeless drunks and desperate men hiding from loan sharks and debt. But it is a hard place to casually walk through in the rain. The rain doesn’t seem to ever purge the place, even though there are reminders that children are around who have toys to make them happy.
(Photo taken in Sanya, Minami-senju, Tokyo in April, 2012)
These replica guns, in a Tokyo toy store, they bothered me.
But maybe they shouldn’t have.
After all, I’m an American.
(Pictures taken in Nakano Broadway in April, 2012.)
It was the Monday of Golden Week, and he was sitting quietly by himself playing with a puzzle-form toy at the end of a table on a sidewalk in Ueno. He reacted as if I had distracted him from the most important thing in the world, but also as if he was slightly bemused by my presence.
I was glad when he relaxed and smiled a little for me. During my infrequent adventures as a six-foot tall American in Tokyo, I have mostly seen kids get tense around me, which means they’re uncomfortable. Or they stare at me like a I’m a space alien in a human suit, which makes me uncomfortable. But this boy didn’t tense up or stare, so I thanked him profusely and sincerely in my broken Japanese for letting me take his picture.
Upon reflection, though, I wish he hadn’t flashed me the peace sign. Because I have since given it some thought and decided we Americans have not been too good about earning that salute lately.
(Pictures taken on April 30th, 2012 in front of Yamashiroya, an amazing toy store across from Ueno Station and very close to the Ameyokocho marketplace.)
I am midway between 48 and 49 and still enchanted with and charmed by toys. I suppose in a perfect world I would be over my love of toys by now. But I don’t want to live in that world.
Happiness is where you find it, even it it’s in a bit of plastic or vinyl molded to look like a non-existent creature. And when it comes to such toys, my greatest admiration is for the weird, whimsical and very Japanese toys designed by my personal heroes, the Devilrobots.
I just love their stuff. I have quite a bit of it here at the house, though modesty forbids posting pictures lest it be considered a vulgar display. I’ve been a fan for about 10 years, but Devilrobots have been around since 1997. I can’t quite remember exactly how I stumbled upon the toys and trinkets they design. But I do remember making a conscious effort to meet up with my heroes when I was in Tokyo in April and part of May this year. And, lucky me, on May 3rd, 2012 I got to travel to Tokyo’s Shinjuku Ward and have a look inside the creative world of a small group of geniuses.
And I’d like to share that world with you. So have a look, and enjoy.
My host, Kotohiro Nishiyama, is really just the nicest man. That’s him in the picture below. Due to scheduling conflicts, Koto-san was the only team member who was able to meet me and let me look around Devilrobots’ headquarters. And he didn’t just meet me at the office like anyone else might have. He met me in the rain at Kagurazaka Station on the Tōzai Line and guided me to the Devilrobots’ building near Edogawabashi. He was such a gentleman, letting me wander around as I wished while he did some work in his office. And at one point we sat for a good spell at the Devilrobots’ coffee table (pictured later) and had some cigarettes and talked of toys and the time we both spent in Minnesota and some silly things I don’t exactly recall. His company was delightful and his hospitality was wonderfully generous. And he’d never even met me before.
After meeting Koto-san, well I went a little nuts and took pictures of almost everything I saw. And it started with this To-fu Oyako display right outside the Devilrobots’ front entrance.
Detail from the previous photo.
A beautiful assortment of wonderful characters greets you when you enter Devilrobots.
The reception area and lounge. No receptionist nor sign-in book here.
Marshmallow princess Maffy, my wife’s favorite character. This is to the right as you enter the Devilrobots’ front door.
The fully-loaded shelves of toys in the Devilrobots’ lounge will blow your mind.
And on the floor, there are Japanese-style To-fu Oyako slot machines.
Devilrobots have designed a whole menagerie of vinyl creatures and characters. The pink figure in the center is a To-fu Oyako x Gloomy Bear mashup.
A crazy-wonderful Devilrobots version of Mickey Mouse.
The entrance foyer, because I forgot to show this previously. Sorry. I got distracted.
The Devilrobots’ Jedi coffee and meeting table.
Just a trinket on the table which Koto-san showed me.
A prototype for the new To-fu Oyako color vinyl figure series.
To-fu vinyl and ice water await patiently for attention and consumption.
The two great Devilrobots characters, To-fu Oyako and Evirob, in vinyl on the table.
Koto-san and I, we had a few cigarettes together when I took a couple of breaks from taking pictures.
Koto-san looks a little like a Japanese Abraham Lincoln.
And except for the unhappy expression, this hirsute to-fu sculpture kind of looks like Koto-san.
To-fu Oyako happy figure madness.
To-fu Oyako “Toy Story” UFO catcher alien.
Devilrobot’s Medicom Toy 100% Be@rbricks. These are kind of rare. I’m lucky to have all three (the first one is the same as the third, but showing the back of the head.)
There is whimsy at every turn where the Devilrobots live.
In a snow globe of his own, lonely Kiiro-chan.
400% be@rbricks and other figures. Does the one on the left look familiar?
A prestigious award that lead designer Shinichiro Kitai won with his To-fu Oyako character in a design competition before founding Devilrobots in 1997. I would have met Shin-san but for the scheduling conflicts, both his and mine but mostly mine, mentioned earlier. I regret this missed opportunity, but I hope to compensate by meeting Shin-san the next time I’m in Tokyo.
Well, that’s it.
I shot a hell of a lot more photos than the ones you’ve just seen. But even the internet can only hold so much data. So I hope you’ve enjoyed this brief tour and commentary about my wonderful time visiting the Devilrobots.
(And Koto-san, from me to you I say thanks. Meeting up with you that afternoon in Shinjuku was one of the happiest experiences I’ve had in Japan.)
As usual, my buddy and I weren’t red carpet paparazzi, we were security.
It was the only time I could ever see her, ever get close to her.
She had her new beau on her arm tonight. It was my sworn duty to ensure their safety.
I’d lay down my life for her. I always would. I wanted her, would never again have her, and that’s just how it was.
Quite often the thing you need to do….
….is the last thing you usually consider.
And that is: Always watch out for the toys.