The Nakano Bicycle Defender Revealed—A small secret identity

This, ladies and gentlemen, is the Nakano Bicycle Defender. And all I tried to do was give him a baseball cap.

But I fucked that up.

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For a belated Children’s Day, I wanted to give the neighbor boy a brand new Barry Bonds “715 Home Runs” commemorative baseball cap that I happened to have with me. I was outside my rented apartment having a smoke when I saw him playing in the street. I held up the hat and called him over to me in broken Japanese. He heard me, and got an excited look on his face. But as he ran toward me, he tripped on his own feet and took a face plant onto the pavement.

Well then he started to cry and howl. I felt like the biggest jerk in the world. I was horrified. Then the boy got up and went looking for his mother, who I think is one of the managers for my apartment building.

I slunk back into my apartment, hoping the boy was okay and that his mother wouldn’t come looking for me with a frying pan in one of her hands. It turned out fine, though. No one came to curse me, and I saw the boy a short time later playing in the street again. I called him over one more time and gave him the hat, which he cheerfully accepted. He even said ‘thank you’, which children often forget to do.

But as you can see he had blood and bandages on his nose, which made me feel like even more of a jerk.

What a day.

Tokyo Do Change—A small temporal observation

I had both a curious and a funny moment today that I did not expect. Right now, I’m too tired from lunching with friends in Roppongi and visiting the Popbox Jump! event at Shibuya Loft to throw anything deep, hard-hitting, or poignant at you.

The curious moment was when I went looking for a shop (shown in the second picture below) that my wife and I saw on our visit four years ago. I wanted to photograph it again, but do a better job. Well, that shop isn’t there anymore. The shop in the picture immediately below is.

Looks like just another hip, urban Tokyo clothing shop. I didn’t find it interesting. This town is lousy with hip, urban clothing shops.

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May, 2012

But I was, for lack of a better imagination, minorly blown away that the shop from four years ago was gone. It was not very dramatic, but was definitely a “hit-me-over-the-head” moment. Tokyo is dynamic, organic, changing, and fleeting. The low level of change, and even permanence, in the parts of the city I know well is truly offset by the rising and falling of structures, and the coming and going of businesses. This is just one example. Another is that my favorite Shibuya Indian restaurant in the ‘80s is now a Shakey’s Pizza.

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March, 2008

The funny moment today came when the tout for the Hood shop came up to me in the street. She asked me in English if I liked how the shop looked. I started to tell her that her shop used to sell condoms. She didn’t know the word condoms. So I thought about how to explain. Because her English was good, I thought about trying to put an imaginary condom on my right index finger and telling her “To protect during sex, you know?”

But then it occurred to me that talking about sex and making a clinical explanatory gesture that could be seen as obscene to a young woman could get me yelled at or beaten with a police nightstick. So I stopped myself from doing something potentially really stupid. Rather than attempt to explain ‘condom’, I told the Hood tout girl never mind and to have a nice day.

And I walked towards Shibuya Station. And that’s it.

Life In Tokyo—A small video dispatch

Okay, I admit it: I can be a whiny bastard. But sometimes I think my whining is justified. I’ve been bitching and moaning, mostly on Twitter, about the noise from a construction sight next to my apartment building in Nakano, Tokyo. The men working on this job sight are building what appears to be a pretty nice house.

And I think that is very cool, but have a listen to the noise I have had to hear most mornings for at least the last week:

I’m talking too loudly to compensate for the loudness outside. Adjust video volume accordingly.

 

Anyway, you be the judge of whether my complaints above are justified. And have a look below, because I do think it is going to be a very nice house.

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And they appear to be taking safety quite seriously, which is nice.

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Ladies Of The Tokyo Evening—A small ‘not what you think’

A group of women, friends obviously, out late on the Tozai Line in Tokyo. They were a pretty bunch, but I wondered why they were on the subway at eleven o’clock on a Thursday night. I’m sure Golden Week had something to do with it. My excuse was I was coming home from a lively night out in Asakusa with friends.

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After seeing the women above, I was walking back to my apartment from Nakano Station when I saw this woman. A fortune teller, I think. To be honest, the sight of her calmly sitting there alone beside her glowing lantern spooked the hell out of me. I quickly walked past her back to my place, drank a beer, smoked a cigarette, brushed my teeth, and went the hell to bed.

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Order Your Drinks—A small impatience

In Kamiya Bar, things move fast.

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And that’s just the way it is.

Drink up.

Denki bran?

(Kamiya Bar, Asakusa, Tokyo, May 03 2012)

The Street Eaters—A small repast

Come.

Join us for a bite.

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The rice tastes of asphalt,

The ramen tastes of beer.

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But we are the Kings

of Rainwater Tea,

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And we are always here.

(Pictures taken in Sanya, Minami-senju, Tokyo in April, 2012)

The Black Widow of Nakacho—A small bop and sway

Nakacho is kind of a notorious red-light district in Ueno, Tokyo. I tend to think of it as the Kabukichō of eastern Tokyo. Others more knowledgeable than I may debate this. But it isn’t hard to find. It is just south of Shinobazu Dori, to which it runs parallel at the southern end of Shinobazu Pond in Ueno Park. I used to walk through Nakacho quite a bit when I was living near to it in the late ‘80s. It was like the Wild West back then.

More recently, a friend and I were walking through Nakacho at about 2:45 on a Monday afternoon. A bright, sunny day at the time, but Nakacho was still open for business. For example, a man in his twenties approached me and my friend and asked us if we wanted “fuck girls”. Prostitutes, to use more delicate language. Being faithful married men, we both declined the offer.

Then when we turned around, my friend and I saw another kind of girl. At least, we were pretty sure it was a girl. Or used to be.

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This woman was standing out in broad daylight in front of a beer vending machine drinking a huge can of Asahi Super Dry. The sounds of a steel drum band could be overheard from the amphitheater in nearby Ueno Park, and she was bopping and swaying to that music a bit. Well, the booze probably helped in the swaying department too.

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I don’t know about you, but to me this is not the best look for a woman. But what the hell, you can be anything you want to be in Tokyo. And for all I know, this tough-looking broad is the wealthy owner of the club for which the young man in the street was offering fuck girls.

The Duchess of Ueno Park—A small audience

It was as if she was holding court, although it couldn’t possibly have been that way. The man with the bow and and saw had taken his place at least ten minutes before The Duchess sat down.

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Still, on a lazy Monday, it was easy to think that The Duchess had taken time off from ruling her regular domain to come down to Ueno Park during Golden Week to survey how the citizens of her colonial holdings were carrying on.

She even had a man in attendance. He was dressed in black, as all men who protect the lives and welfare of royalty probably should be.

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But on this day, there were no threats towards The Duchess. All her man appeared to be responsible for was handing his mistress a few coins to reward the bow and saw man when he was done playing his tune.

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Ghost To You—A small, passing glimpse

The changes in Tokyo,

have vexed me for decades.

I can’t see a person,

because people are in the way.

This son of a bitch between us,

he’s keeping me from knowing you,

and you from knowing me.

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So I sit,

he passes,

you leave.

And in your memory I will be but a ghost to you.

Let’s Kinetic Noodle Madness!!—A small promotion

I was up in Ueno, Tokyo today, killing a little time before I had to meet my friend Lee Chapman. And on the south end of Ueno Station, next to the main entrance to Ameyokocho, are a couple of restaurants with distinct and funny ways of attracting customers.

So to convey how odd and fun these displays are, I shot the short videos below. You’ll quickly understand why still photographs would not do these advertising contraptions justice. Attention-getters like these are probably common in Tokyo, and Japan. But so far in my focused wanderings throughout the city I have only seen kinetic noodles and giant smoking bowls of food in this location.

It looks a bit like an invisible person is beating a noodle creature with red chopsticks.

I swear to you, if I could have slipped this thing somehow into my camera bag, it would be coming home to California with me.

 

Don’t know if this is a dry ice or chemical smoke mechanism.

This advertising device is, I think, less interesting than the noodle machine, but I like this video because of the kid in the background trying to hang up the banner.